New Papercut Patterns: Spring 2013

Update: They added all important information (fabrics requirements, line drawings, etc.) to the Papercut site!

I love Papercut patterns and again, I don't have any, its a darned shame. Their new release for the season is up and its really very beautiful.

La Sylphide

Super cute and oh boy oh boy short. This might be to cute for me, but wouldn't Princess Kate wear this if it were a little longer? The people at Simplicity patterns are (paper)cutting themselves for not doing this pattern first. Also, this one isn't terribly new, the pussy bow is very popular lately, but its still terribly adorable. Love the buttons on the skirt.

Coppelia

We'll let go of the diaper shorts for a minute to focus on the top which the pattern is for. Very nice wrap around top with a tie in the back. Again, not life changing, but beautiful, very flattering and current. Is it a knit pattern or a woven?

Why don't models smile? My job makes me sit in front of a computer for long periods of time cursing to the heavens, I deserve to frown once in a while. She wears pretty clothes and doesn't need to frown.

Peter and the Wolf Pants

I almost love these pants, but I can't really see them! What happened to line drawing and multiple angles of view? The only other front view of these pants is this:

And that's more of a side view than the previous one! Not to disparage an independent pattern designer with great ideas, but this makes me frustrated. The description describes center front seaming, but I'm worried its going to look like the seams outline my underwear and that is NOT cool. I'll wait until someone else makes these to decide, but then it'll be past the free shipping time and shipping from NZ to 'merica has got to be a bitch. (The model is wearing an orange version of the Coppelia pattern here, loving it even more!)

Midsummers' Night Dream

A wrap dress (or camisole)! I love wrap-things that are actually wrap, faux wraps are disappointing. The only problem I have with this is the fit at the top is a little wonky and makes me concerned about how real boobs fit in there.

Petrouchka

I love you Petrouchka, marry me? This is really perfect and totally on trend. I like the swoop of the peplum, but would like to see it on others to address if it makes non-model body types look pregnant. Also, is this knit or woven with a zip? Fabric isn't mentioned in the description.

Rite of Spring Shorts

I really can't see myself near this, but I will say something. The younger girls, 16-21 who live in this city would eat these up.

Also let's look at some of my favorites from previous Papercut collections.

Watson Jacket

Ok how could you not love this, its freakin' fantastic! You know I love capes and what a perfect everyday cape! Love the pop of lining, how fun! This is the reason I first paid attention to Papercut.

Sloppy Joshephine Tee

 Ok, so there's not that much going on here, but who doesn't need tons of easy tees? Might want to bring in that neckline though, its about to fall off. Love the bands at the arms and the (I think) slightly contoured hem.

Pleated Pants

And finally, the perfect pleated pants. I love these, I want a million. I recently realized I need an arsenal of nice pants, jeans all the time is starting to get a little boring.

Here they are in floral.

Love them love them! But have to remember that fit on this is sooo crutial to stay away from any diaper connotations.

I conclusion I love Papercut patterns. I know it may seem like I ragged on them more than say Vogue or Simplicity, its because her ideas are a lot fresher and there's more stuff to talk about than the boring big 4.

Thanksgiving

My Thanksgiving was a lot of fun, I was away from my parents, but my boyfriends family was more than welcoming and I had a great time. How about you?

The happy couple loved(!) their blanket and I'm so so happy for that. They said the colors and stitch were perfect and I don't think they were faking, so SCORE! That makes me really really happy. Totally worth it. I'm fairly sure within a short amount of time I'll be making a baby blanket to accompany it.

More stuff up soon!

The over-100 lb giant Schnauzer I spent Thanksgiving with. She grew up with a chihuahua and thinks she is one.

Pattern Review: Tuck Stitch Lap Throw

I finally finished the wedding present for my future brother-in-law and his lovely wife. Its only over three months late, that's ok right?

Its enormous! That's a queen bed to give you an idea of the size.

I used Cascade 220 in coral and bright blue, the couples favorite colors, but the coral is a bit redder than what it looked like online and the contrast from the blue makes even redder. So I guess I made a red and blue blanket. I used 5 skeins of each color for the body and 1.5 skeins of coral for the border.

Oh the border. The pattern calls for a an entwined, I-cord border. I knit about one-half of the border and HATED it. Completely and utterly. The busy stitch of the body needs a simple border to highlight it, not compete. So instead, after knitting the body I picked up stitches and knitted up a simple garter stitch border. If I were to knit this again (I'm not!) I would knit a garter stitch border at the same time as the body.

I kind of hate this blanket :(
It took way too long, the colors aren't right, the border doesn't look quite right with the picked up stitches. I'm going to hand it to the happy couple and say, 'Here's your wedding present, I'm sorry, let's go burn it together'.

In other news, knitting takes FOR-FRICKIN-EVER! Nearly all of my knitting plans for 2012 have been cancelled, damnit!

Passed the happy paw test.

Previous post about this project

Pattern Review: Hot Patterns Biker Babe Jacket HP 1037

Its done, its done, its done! I could scream it from the rooftops! I have never been so proud of something that I've made in my life. That's about 20 sewing years, countless culottes (hey, I started when I was 7), and more seams ripped than stars in the sky.

Zipped!

My new jacket. The main fabric is made out of the softest camelhair ever (from Gorgeous Fabrics, no longer available) and the lining is a pretty medallion print poly (also from Gorgeous Fabrics, also no longer available but there are other colors, this one is so pretty!). One thing to note about the lining though, in really really tiny letters is the name of the designer Elie Tahari, but its only noticeable if you are about 1" from the fabric.

Now this pattern. Oh boy, this pattern. I had a lot of issues with it. Noted in these posts:
Update #1
Update #2
Update #3 Warning Hot Patterns rant in this post

To paraphrase these, the changes/problems I had/made were:
Jacket way too short, lengthened by 2" all over, would probably add 1.5" on to that in the future for a total of 3.5".
Sleeves way too short, also lengthened 2".
Armhole too low and raised by 3/4" (I think).
Ease in arm (even after adjusting for the raised armhole) way too much.
Back too tight, broadened by about 3/4".
Waist way too big, added a 1.5" seam taking about 6 total inches of fabric out of the waist. This seam allowance was gradually reduced to the pattern seam allowance just below the arm.
Comically huge collar decreased by about 1.5".
Lined.
Added a back pleat to the lining.
Added a simple inner patch pocket.
Did not add the belt or boob pockets.


Some details added to the lining are visible in these pictures, as well as which lining pieces I chose to make in the lining fabric and which I chose to make in the camelhair. Ignore the puckering please.

Unzipped!

Lining was easy. I bagged it, then handstitched the sleeves and a small part of the bottom band (through which I bagged it). I also didn't interface anything except the upper collar, really took a risk there, but the lower collars have the perfect 'stiffness' with the two layers of camelhair. Whew.

Checkout the fit in the back!

I'm going to make this again, twice more in fact. One in olive green twill with a poly sherpa lining and the other in a tweed with no upper collar. I'm not sure that I would recommend this pattern as a LOT went into making this workable, moreso than I think should be expected using a pattern. If you really want this style jacket, well, it was all worth it for me.

Pattern Review (kinda): McCalls 5803

So I've had this pattern for a million years and I've had this fabric for a million years and somewhere in those million years I totally lost my mind because I combined said fabric and pattern. See for your self.

What the HELL was I thinking? I even added pockets! I should be ashamed of myself!

Happy Belated Halloween

I totally forgot that yesterday was Halloween because we celebrated Halloween early last Friday at a colleague's annual par-tay. I went as a burglar.

A cat burglar to be precise.

I made the mask, oh what a feat a sewing wonder, right? It was cheap (free), it was easy, and it had a mask and I've always wanted to wear a mask on Halloween. It was all-in-all a good Halloween.

Now another reason we had Halloween on Friday was because a vicious storm was supposed to tear through on Monday and Tuesday. Fortunately for Massachusetts, there was minimal damage as the hurricane turned away from us on hitting land. We have some mild water damage in our apartment (hey, its over 100 years old), but we had power the entire time and the tree outside stayed standing despite seeming to bend in half from those winds. We were very very lucky. Our southern neighbors, my heart goes out to you. Please continue to stay safe and strong.

PS

This pic was before the game. After, I was a sweaty, 10th inning mess!

New Sewing Patterns: Vogue Holiday 2012

While I try to get my actual sewing into displayable condition I will relentlessly mock Vogue's newest offerings to the community.

Vogue 1326

Jester-chic! Maybe if this didn't have the top pink panel and just have a v-neck, it would be better. Someone tried to dress up the color blocking trend and this what happened. Also, I try not to discuss the models, but her hand looks like a claw! I'm going to moisturize now.

Vogue 1327

Pouchy belly alert! Why oh why would you gather right at the belly and only at the belly. The amount of times that sewing patterns employ gathering is ridiculous. Much like 'more cowbell' of the music world, 'more gathering' is the war cry of the Big4.

This is super cute if the bodice went straight down into a skirt or it was just a shirt, but I have one major problem after that. This would be MURDER to iron! Even the line drawing is wrinkled and that's saying something. One of the recommended fabrics is linen, are you kidding me?

Vogue 1328

I dub thee, 'This is my pubic area' dress. Yeah, can't stop looking now, can you? This is a perfect example of a Vogue dress, little chic, rather conservative, with a couple of boring details. LOVE the purple though! And hey, has anyone noticed that last three have been rendered in SOLID fabrics and ok poses?!?! Its like they're listening.

Vogue 1329

Hey, that's cute! Now that's color blocking done right! The line pattern claims there are pleats at the side, but I wouldn't know. Pleats at the side, also employed nearly as much as pouchy belly gathering. Need proof? See previous pattern.

Vogue 1330

Seriously? Its a slip dress with two rectangles stapled to the sides.

Vogue 1331

That's hideous, its looking at me.

Vogue 8846

Really pretty and very chic and for once, a patterned fabric was the absolute perfect choice to present this pattern with. Brava Vogue! I love the simple front, the neckline, and the pleat in the back, totally wearable, but totally special.

Vogue 8847

Ok, this has been done before, but it looks like a nice pattern. I like the detail of the hem (is that like the smallest detail to like or what?). Like the gathered sleeves (yes, gathering can be used for good and not just evil). Neckline's nice, self belt is nice. I think that model was on ANTM a million years ago. If she was was, I'm going to be sad that that info has stuck around in my head this long, there's more important stuff that should be in there.

Vogue 8849

Tail, TAIL, TAIL!!!!

Vogue 8848

Nice side panels, but I have other patterns that I already want to used for paneling. Its fine. Jeez, there were a lot of patterns in this release.

Vogue 8853

I can't...Boob curtains....Body curtains....Spindly little sleeves.......Bow

Vogue 8855

You know that Christmas advent calenders where you open one window each day, counting down until Christmas and you get a little prize for each day? That's what this looks like to me.

Or maybe this is supposed to be tiny billboards. I would need an Exxon or McDonald's logo to transfer into there. The back panel could be a digital print of the open road. Route 66!

Oh the ideas!

Two fly swatters, the back is just tons of bugs....Maybe I should stop while I'm ahead.

Vogue 8854

Running the kids to school before yoga-wear if I've ever seen it.

Vogue 8857

Ruffly chests, the third most employed detail after belly gathers and side pleats.

Vogue 8859

I hate leggings unless you are wearing them under pants in sub-zero temperatures, so this is obviously a no go. But you have to check out the rest of the pictures for this pattern. The model is wearing the same pants in each picture, but they change the shoes each time. Why?

Vogue 8863

I love big coats with elbow-length sleeves that have smaller sleeves sticking out. I hate the rest of this pattern.

Vogue 8845

80's, super 80's. What's on her head? Something's off with the lapel, help me out? Is that a skull? So many questions.

Vogue 8860

I really really like this! The hood, swingy shape, minimalistic details, color blocking. Its fab! Yup, fab.

Vogue 8861

This would really fall apart without a belt. If you have to rely on a belt to make something cute, something is wrong. I like the collar.

Vogue 8862

Ok, this seems to have a lot of detail, but its all black and hard to see. PS, don't match you tights and you bag. Nononononono!

Vogue 8865

Why didn't they finish this? The pieces are falling off!

Vogue 8866

Wow, Vogue always really grasps towards the end, don't they? Hideous, all around. That is a powerful peplum and those are the worst pants ever. Don't match your lipstick, shoes, and bag.

Now for my final two favorite patterns, I'm so excited for these!

Vogue 1332

I love this! I really really do! Does it look like the outer protective shell of a beetle? Why yes it does, a FABULOUS beetle! Love the beetle shape, everyone needs more round coats in their lives. The collar is awesomely huge and shoulder has a intriguing shape. Obviously, I love that it has sleeves that seem to extend from the main body (see above). I love you beetle coat.

Vogue 1335

This is going to be perfect the next time I need to sew myself a straight jacket or a great jumping off point for a Rebel Alliance ice world Hoth uniform. What-the-what-the-who-the-how-the-why-oh-why?

 

Thank you Leia.