Tuesday, August 28, 2012

Pattern Review: Sencha!

So I finally got around to doing what every other person with a sewing machine has done, make a Sencha, heck, make any Colette pattern! I was worried about Sencha. To my eye it can be a really cute take on a 20s/30s shirt, but it can also turn into hospital scrubs. I wanted mine to err on the side of cute.

For the fabric I chose a black-and-white lightweight cotton voile from Gorgeous Fabrics. I've decided I need to sew clothes that are washable, no more of this dry cleaning shizz, and the fabric perfectly fit that bill along with being a lot of fun. The print is super cute, and when you actually see the fabric, there are little raised white dots that catch the light. Its almost like having two prints interlaced with each other. It irons like. a. dream. Let's just say I had a disaster project recently and to make matters worse, the fabric didn't take the iron very well. Grrrrrrrrrr.

For the pattern sizing I fell between two sizes and the pattern says to pick the larger size, so I did. The instructions were easy to follow, here are some changes I made on the way.
  • Made the shoulder seam a french seam. I can't stand raw edges and the seam adapted really well to the french seam process.
  • Pulled my hair out trying to figure out a way to finish the side seams. Its different because in the side seam, there's a ninety-degree angle so a french seam or serging is out. I decided to use my regular machine on a narrow zig-zag. Its not the most elegant, but its clean and won't unravel. I know I could pink both these seams, but pinking makes me twitch. Like all over twitching, I do no like pinking.
  • Interfaced the buttons and buttonholes.
Couple things I wish were different and will change next time.
  • There is no fold line for the sleeve. I didn't realize this was going to be a problem until it was. See, you have to fold the sleeve over after sewing everything together and folding a proper straight line after the fabric is twisted and sewn is not easy. Just quickly marking a straight line before making the arm hole would save a little grief. I could be getting a little crazy about the straightness of my armhole fold, who knows....
  • Whoopsie-balls. I put my buttonholes a bit further away from the center edge than the pattern calls for. But then again, the pattern didn't make this clear, I found this out of the Sencha forum on the Coletterie.
  • I started the first buttonhole at the neck too far down.
Now the real problem. This shirt was wayyyy tooooo bigggg for me.  I decided this pattern would be pretty easy to alter after the fact which is why I didn't make a muslin and went ahead and finished the whole thing before thinking of any changes. It fit well across the bust, back, and shoulders, but was too wide for my waist and veered into scrubs territory. Removing most of the back tucks and then extending them up to the top of my waist as darts made for an easy change and a great fit!

Great fit at the back, but that first button is way too low.

I really really love this shirt and I can see more fitting well into my wardrobe. I've already tried it with a bunch of clothes already in wardrobe rotation and it even transitions well into fall so I can wear it for a long time! Woohoo! New shirt! Great shirt!

Tuesday, August 21, 2012

New Victory Patterns!!

I love Victory patterns, but I yet don't have an Victory patterns. Its a horrible injustice to my pattern repertoire and one that needs to be fixed very very soon. Now there are even more Victory patterns! Oh my little heart can barely handle it!

Let's begin!


The love I have for this collar could launch a million ships. This is the Helen of Collars for me. The back is pleated so it makes for a loose, breezy shirt very similar to one of my favorite shirts so I know the silhouette works with me. I've never been a fan of tunics, but that length can be easily remedied. Roxanne includes different sleeves and a different collar. I'm going to have 50 of these within 5 years. Mark my words.


This is a really versatile pattern. I could make a million of these and still keep it different. I think racerbacks are super flattering and love how this goes from a tight racerback to a looser bottom silhouette. In the dress form, this is damn near a perfect dress, fancy it up or go casual, wow! I'm not sure about the neckslit tab, but it doesn't seem necessary to the neckline. Victory!


 Nicola is a gorgeously simple dress. The curve and wrap of the skirt with the wrap of the bodice is perfection. The sleeves are very nice, but for me, I'd go sleeveless. Sweet, sad story about the name.


Satsuki is a lovely pattern, not for me, but an absolutely lovely pattern.

I cannot wait to order my first Victories and totally enjoy my new Victories!