Pattern Review: Sencha!

So I finally got around to doing what every other person with a sewing machine has done, make a Sencha, heck, make any Colette pattern! I was worried about Sencha. To my eye it can be a really cute take on a 20s/30s shirt, but it can also turn into hospital scrubs. I wanted mine to err on the side of cute.

For the fabric I chose a black-and-white lightweight cotton voile from Gorgeous Fabrics. I've decided I need to sew clothes that are washable, no more of this dry cleaning shizz, and the fabric perfectly fit that bill along with being a lot of fun. The print is super cute, and when you actually see the fabric, there are little raised white dots that catch the light. Its almost like having two prints interlaced with each other. It irons like. a. dream. Let's just say I had a disaster project recently and to make matters worse, the fabric didn't take the iron very well. Grrrrrrrrrr.

For the pattern sizing I fell between two sizes and the pattern says to pick the larger size, so I did. The instructions were easy to follow, here are some changes I made on the way.

• Made the shoulder seam a french seam. I can't stand raw edges and the seam adapted really well to the french seam process.
• Pulled my hair out trying to figure out a way to finish the side seams. Its different because in the side seam, there's a ninety-degree angle so a french seam or serging is out. I decided to use my regular machine on a narrow zig-zag. Its not the most elegant, but its clean and won't unravel. I know I could pink both these seams, but pinking makes me twitch. Like all over twitching, I do no like pinking.
• Interfaced the buttons and buttonholes.

Couple things I wish were different and will change next time.

• There is no fold line for the sleeve. I didn't realize this was going to be a problem until it was. See, you have to fold the sleeve over after sewing everything together and folding a proper straight line after the fabric is twisted and sewn is not easy. Just quickly marking a straight line before making the arm hole would save a little grief. I could be getting a little crazy about the straightness of my armhole fold, who knows....
• Whoopsie-balls. I put my buttonholes a bit further away from the center edge than the pattern calls for. But then again, the pattern didn't make this clear, I found this out of the Sencha forum on the Coletterie.
• I started the first buttonhole at the neck too far down.

Now the real problem. This shirt was wayyyy tooooo bigggg for me.  I decided this pattern would be pretty easy to alter after the fact which is why I didn't make a muslin and went ahead and finished the whole thing before thinking of any changes. It fit well across the bust, back, and shoulders, but was too wide for my waist and veered into scrubs territory. Removing most of the back tucks and then extending them up to the top of my waist as darts made for an easy change and a great fit!

Great fit at the back, but that first button is way too low.

I really really love this shirt and I can see more fitting well into my wardrobe. I've already tried it with a bunch of clothes already in wardrobe rotation and it even transitions well into fall so I can wear it for a long time! Woohoo! New shirt! Great shirt!

New Victory Patterns!!

I love Victory patterns, but I yet don't have an Victory patterns. Its a horrible injustice to my pattern repertoire and one that needs to be fixed very very soon. Now there are even more Victory patterns! Oh my little heart can barely handle it!

Let's begin!

Roxanne

Roxanne

The love I have for this collar could launch a million ships. This is the Helen of Collars for me. The back is pleated so it makes for a loose, breezy shirt very similar to one of my favorite shirts so I know the silhouette works with me. I've never been a fan of tunics, but that length can be easily remedied. Roxanne includes different sleeves and a different collar. I'm going to have 50 of these within 5 years. Mark my words.

Simone

Simone

This is a really versatile pattern. I could make a million of these and still keep it different. I think racerbacks are super flattering and love how this goes from a tight racerback to a looser bottom silhouette. In the dress form, this is damn near a perfect dress, fancy it up or go casual, wow! I'm not sure about the neckslit tab, but it doesn't seem necessary to the neckline. Victory!

Nicola

Nicola

 Nicola is a gorgeously simple dress. The curve and wrap of the skirt with the wrap of the bodice is perfection. The sleeves are very nice, but for me, I'd go sleeveless. Sweet, sad story about the name.

Satsuki

Satsuki

Satsuki is a lovely pattern, not for me, but an absolutely lovely pattern.

I cannot wait to order my first Victories and totally enjoy my new Victories!

New Simplicity Patterns: Fall 2012

Hot on the Vogue heels are the rest of Simplicity's offering for our autumnal sewing pursuits. Fall is my absolute favorite fashion season. Its not so hot that you have to wear shorts and a tank to be comfortable, but not so cold that its snow boots and down everyday. Go Fall!

The bestest pattern of the restest.

Simplicity 1756

Wow wow wow. I love layering pieces that make an outfit for interesting and boy oh boy, this is an interesting layering piece. Its AWESOME! Its so unpractical and ridiculous that its perfectly perfect. I love the vest the bestest, but I love the jacket too. And I LOVE those silly cutouts. I'm this close to abandoning everything in my queue and making 14 of these. Thank you Cynthia.

And in no particular order....

Simplicity 1754

 I see the princess fans at Simplicity are still well and good because Kate wore that black lace dress. Other than the obviously inspiration, there's nothing that remarkable about this pattern and in fact, the dress on the pink girl is making her look dowdy.

Simplicity 1755

I haven't come to a final decision about this pattern because I hate, hate, hate the fabric choices for both options. The sleeveless version is the same color as the model skin tone, but wrinkly. How attractive. The version with sleeves is just gross. Since there's so much going on in this pattern, I think it really needs to be done in a solid color, but maybe red, blue, black, anything other than 'flesh of the wearer' please. Not bad Leanne, better than last time definitely.

Simplicity 1758

This pattern is pretty hideous, I'm only looking at it for the furry vest and its a fail. The ribbon closure is so sad. So so sad. The vest is weeping ribbons.

Simplicity 1759

Super 80's style jackets. I dislike low button closures on long coats, it makes the coat look like it was made for a much much taller lady.

Simplicity 1762

Awesome jammies! I want to make this in red and walk around with a pipe, ala Playboy. No, seriously.

New Vogue Patterns: Fall 2012

Are you lacking things to make and have a little free time? No? Then stop reading, this will only increase your sewing load because some of the patterns aren't so bad.

In the spirit of the Olympics, the gold medal patterns.

Vogue 1314

Vogue 1314, I love you with a million Suns. The ruching, the long sleeves, the just past knee length, the knit. Be still my sewing heart. I guess I have a simple heart because this shape is so simple, but boy do I love it. Thank you for coming into my life.

 Vogue 1322

Holy mackerel do I love a good cape? Why yes I do! The arm slits are perfect and its so tailored and adult. Needs different colors though, liven it up. 

 Vogue 1323

Note this is here for the shirt only, the pants are horrifying silk elastic cuffed monstrosities. The shirt on the other hand is just lovely. Let's face it, I (and probably you) don't wear dresses nearly as much as you wear pants and shirts, yet all we ever make is dresses. Amirite? Love the buttons, love the cuffs, love the lack of a collar. Hate the print.

Vogue 1313

Love the sportiness of this and that pocket placement is genius. The front zipper on the the other hand...exposed zippers look cheap to me. I know, I know its trendy. Even Victoria Beckham has them all over her dresses. People can be wrong.

Vogue 8827

 Love ruffles, love that only half of this has ruffles. Less top bulk is happy bulk.

Vogue 8840

Super trendy. A t-shirt of minimal shaping with a center seam made of woven fabric, particularly leather. On the other hand, does this trend actually work? Look at the fabric pulling around her upper chest and sleeve area, this looks so uncomfortable to wear.

Vogue 1316

Would I wear this? Yes, of course. Its interesting and eye catching. Do I want to make this? For the love of turkey bacon, NO! The cutting out would be bad enough let along all that seaming. And don't even consider trying to fit that.

Vogue 8838

Been considering jumping on the never-gonna-go-away furry vest bandwagon and I've been looking for the right pattern to join me on the adventure. This seems a little baggy, no?

Now for the silver medal patterns.

Vogue 8829

Really sweet dress, I like the contrasting options that they show here. I've always been a fan of dresses with front buttons. Not zippers though.

Vogue 1319

I'm of two camps here:

That coat has a really nice shape and lines.

That coat makes her look shapelessly pregnant.

Maybe just adopt some of the nice aspects of the style of this garment to flattering coats.

Love the impractical for winter sleeves.

Vogue 8844

I love hats and finally a hat pattern of cute hats, but wait, why do they look appallingly huge? Back to the hat drawing board.

Vogue 1315

Sweatdresssuit.

Vogue 1320

Sharp as hell, but might read too dated if not in a fun print.

Vogue 1321

Elegant, I'll never wear it.

Bronze medals.

Vogue 8835

Pencil skirt, but this one is a faux wrap. How exciting. Sarcasm.

Vogue 8841

Obviously vintage inspired and I've said in the past, I'm not one of those vintage loving girls. I don't like clothes with detachable pieces, it feels seems cheap, but I guess it helps with the cleaning logistics and meeting different needs for different materials.

Vogue 1324

Vogue 8831

I once had cowl necks described to me as giant neck vaginas. You cannot unsee that. You're welcome.

Vogue 1317Vogue 1317

Sew up that front slit and you have a 7-year-old's Easter dress.

And now for a new category: Go back to your country and take up a new hobby.

For your pirate wardrobe needs with have two options.

 Vogue 8832

Boho pirate

Vogue 8834 

or buttoned-up and business pirate? Styling is off, needs a sword.

And the final category: The IOC officially disavows knowledge of your country so that you may never participate in the Olympics again.

Vogue 1312

I dub thee, 'The Birthing Dress'. Those shoes are totally impractical during the labor process, terrible accessorizing. Like seriously, this is a real pattern and this is how they try to sell it.

New knitting project: Wedding Blanket

I am more than one skein in on my Amazing Boyfriend's brother and future-wife's wedding present. Their favorite colors are blue and coral so I bought some lovely, washable, wooly blue and coral yarn from my favorite online yarn store, Jimmy Beans. Went with Cascade 220. Unfortunately, the coral was a bit redder and brighter than I thought it would be from the online pictures....and together the colors look more like blue and red. Its a very patriotic blanket. You see their wedding is exactly one month at the 4th of July, keeping the theme alive!

Not a flag, warning, not a flag.

For the pattern I'm using the Tuck Stitch Lap Throw by Patti-Ann Williamson that I found on Ravelry and KnitPicks that I thought was perfect because its a little retro and old fashioned. I have a picture of the couple and the background is a granny square wall hanging, a little retro and old fashioned.

The only problem is: this is not going to get done in time for the wedding. Crap.

Nice rack!

New home dec! I live in an apartment and compared to all my apartments, its the clear winner, but that doesn't mean that there is a ton of cabinet space. This is my pots and pans cabinet.

When you try to take one out, they all fall in an avalanche. So frustrating!

So inspired by not wanting to pay $130 for a Crate and Barrel pot rack as well as the work on this site, my Amazing Boyfriend and I decided to make one ourselves.

First we got a pegboard and painted it. Home Depot has pegboards in giant'xgiant' or 2'x4' so we got the smaller one. Also bought some semi-gloss paint in obscenely bright red-orange.

Not lying about the obscenely bright red-orange.

Because we want the pegboard to be off the wall by a little, so we got some 2"x3/8" cut a little bit shorter than the rack will be wide and screwed them into the wall. Speaking of screwing things into the wall, replastering everything once we leave this place is going to be a real beast.

Next, and this part is easy because the pegboard already has holes all over it, screw the pegboard into the wood.

Boom! It was a pretty easy project with a great space saving result!

Upon putting everything up and admiring our handiwork, my Amazing Boyfriend said, "All I can see are things that could have been done better." I said, "All I can see is orange and we only use three of these pots."

Little did I know that Home Depot has a small but ample selection of pegboard accessories. Those little baskets are going to hold some sewing stuff! Whoho! Nefarious purposes!

Project Update #2: Hot Patterns Biker Babe Jacket

The Biker Babe Jacket is fitted and ready to be cut out! I call it Franken-pattern now.

Check out that sleeve!

I've never ever ever done this much preparatory work for a pattern, but I really want a good fit on this thing. I foresee wearing it nearly everyday and I want to be happy about it nearly everyday.

I ran into a problem yesterday while doing the final fitting. When is the garment fitted 'enough'? When does the armsycle look exactly right? Does the back and length look right? I hope that in the future, doing more of this, I'll have experience. Despite everything that my aunt taught me about sewing, I didn't learn how to fit (mainly because I didn't want to be in various stages of undress for some fitting processes), so its pretty much all self taught from the internet and all the other totally awesome bloggers out there. I gotta saw though, my Amazing Boyfriend really helps out, he wants to me to be happy and he knows a jacket that fits will make me happy.

Making the hard decisions.

Changes made to this pattern:
1. Raise the armhole by 1". Still not sure if it should go up higher or if there is too much fabric in the sleeve opening.

2. Broadened the back by 3/4" on both sides. This fits AMAZING through the back now, why have I never done this?

Tush shot.

To fit the back, first I sliced a gash about 1.5" from the armhole and then measured how wide the gash spread when I put my arms forward. All widening was done below the yoke (I think that's the correct vocab word) because the upper back fit well.

3. Lengthened the sleeves and body by 2" (damn its a short jacket!) through the waist. Or I'm long-waisted. (above pics do not show this)
4. Decreased the flair at the bottom of the body. Cause it looked stupid.

I'm going to cut this jacket out the softest, most amazing (and expensive) baby camel hair ever shaved from a baby camel. I'm assuming it was summer and the baby camel was sweltering. I got it from Gorgeous Fabrics a looooong time ago so they are expectantly out of the fabric. As a side note, can I just say was fricking amazing selection, sales, and customer service that GF has? I think if I ever met Ann I'd go fangirl on her.

Main garment fabric from Gorgeous Fabrics. The lining is also from GF and still available here.